Exosome Therapy in Aesthetic Medicine: Promising but Not a Miracle Cure

Exosomes Are Hailed as the Future of Skin Regeneration – But How Solid Is the Science? And Are There Safe, Practical Treatments Yet? A Critical Review.
Dr. Eva Maria Strobl
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Why I Don’t Offer Exosome Treatments

I am often asked why I do not offer exosome therapy. Although I value regenerative treatments that harness the body’s own healing potential, I currently do not provide exosome-based procedures in my practice.

Why not?

The term exosomes sounds like high-tech skin regeneration — tiny vesicles through which cells exchange signals and growth factors. In basic research, they play an important role in cell communication, regeneration, and wound healing. It is therefore understandable that many patients hope exosomes might represent the next major breakthrough in aesthetic medicine.

However, the current state of research, the lack of standardization, and the unclear regulatory framework provide little evidence to support this optimism. That some manufacturers of cosmetic products and so-called medical devices already claim otherwise is hardly surprising — the industry thrives on new trends and bold promises.

What Are Exosomes – and Why Are They So Interesting?

Exosomes are tiny particles released by cells that contain proteins, lipids, and genetic material (RNA). They act as messengers between cells and can trigger regenerative processes such as collagen production.

In laboratory studies, impressive effects have been observed — for example in wound healing, inflammation control, and skin regeneration. These findings are promising, but they do not yet come from clinical studies in humans.

Human and Plant Exosomes – A Crucial Difference

When people talk about “exosomes” today, caution is advised — because there are two entirely different categories:

1. Plant-Based or Biotechnologically Produced Exosomes

These are derived from plant extracts such as seaweed, rose, carrot, or ginger. Chemically, they resemble human exosomes, but biologically they are something completely different. In cosmetics, they mainly serve as delivery systems to help active ingredients in creams or serums penetrate deeper skin layers.
What they do not do: rejuvenate the skin or trigger true biological regeneration.

2. Human or Allogeneic Exosomes

These are obtained from donor cells such as umbilical cord, fat, or bone marrow cells. They are the focus of current medical research but are not approved for aesthetic use in either the EU or the U.S.

Almost all so-called “exosome treatments” currently offered are therefore not based on human exosomes but on plant-derived, exosome-like nanoparticles. They are often marketed with the same promises, even though their biological effects differ significantly.

Current State of Research and Regulation on Human Exosomes

Preclinical Success – but No Clinical Evidence

To this day, there is no approved exosome product for medical or cosmetic use.

Studies in cell cultures and animal models show that exosomes derived from mesenchymal stem cells may accelerate wound healing, collagen synthesis, and scar reduction. These findings are encouraging but remain purely preclinical — they demonstrate biological activity, not clinically proven effects in humans.

Lack of Standards and Potential Risks

There are no standardized manufacturing protocols. It remains unclear which cell source, concentration, or dosage is optimal. Risks such as immune reactions or transmission issues from allogeneic material also remain unresolved.

These uncertainties make study comparison difficult and currently prevent reliable clinical application.

Regulatory Grey Zone

In the United States, the FDA classifies exosomes as biological drugs, requiring full approval — a process no product has yet completed.
In Europe, the same principle applies: exosomes from human or animal tissue cannot be used as cosmetic ingredients.

As a result, all exosome products currently on the market are based on plant-derived vesicles, not genuine human exosomes.

Plant-Derived Exosome-Like Nanoparticles – Research With Limits

Several preclinical studies report positive effects of plant-derived vesicles: they promote cell migration, wound healing, antioxidant activity, and inflammation control in cell cultures and animal models. Vesicles from aloe vera, grapes, ginger, and algae are most studied.

BUT:

  • No human trial has demonstrated regenerative effects in people.
  • Study quality and methods vary widely; standardized isolation, purity metrics, and dosing are lacking.
  • Transferability to human skin remains uncertain.

Plant exosome-like nanoparticles appear most useful as carrier systems for active ingredients, not as a stand-alone regenerative therapy. Their main advantage for now is stability and skin compatibility.

“Exosomes From PRP” – A Claim Without Scientific Basis

Some providers now promote the idea of extracting exosomes directly from platelet-rich plasma (PRP). Since PRP plays an important role in my practice, this would indeed be an intriguing concept — if it were scientifically supported.

PRP does contain extracellular vesicles, including exosome-like particles released by platelets. However:

  • The ratio of true exosomes to other vesicle types is not standardized.
  • Biological activity varies greatly depending on PRP preparation methods.
  • There are no clinical studies showing that “PRP exosomes” provide any additional benefit compared to conventional PRP.
  • Techniques claiming to stimulate or release exosomes through heat or light are biologically implausible.

Several review papers emphasize that while PRP can theoretically serve as a source of extracellular vesicles, the clinical efficacy of isolated particles has not been proven.

Until independent human studies are available, PRP remains what it has been scientifically shown to be: an autologous concentrate of natural growth factors, not a true source of exosomes.

Conclusion: Promising Research – But Clinical Application Still a Distant Prospect

As Outlined Above:

  1. Human exosomes are scientifically promising and show great potential in preclinical models, but they are not yet available as a therapeutic option.
  2. Plant-derived exosome-like nanoparticles are already used in cosmetic formulations, yet their regenerative effects remain unproven in clinical studies.
  3. The concept of “exosomes from PRP” is weakly supported by science and lacks a convincing evidence base.

Therefore:

I currently do not offer exosome treatments in my practice. I continue to closely monitor ongoing research and will consider adding exosome-based procedures once robust clinical data, standardized production methods, and clear regulatory approval are established.

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